The device has two wires, a white and a red. MM Marketing has you connect the white wire to the CIGAR fuse in the fuse box on the left hand (U.S. drivers side) wall of the car below the dashboard. They have you connect the red wire to the TAIL fuse . However, the manufacturer states very clearly that you need an "Instrument Panel Lamps fuse", and adds in capitals: "NO OTHER LIGHTING FUSE WILL DO." The manufacturer also writes in a postscript, again using capitals: "PLEASE NOTE: For vehicles without a separate instrument lamps fuse (most imports), red MUST be spliced directly into a lead going from lights switch to any side marker or parking lamp."
When I followed the directions of MMM, my buzzer would always go off, even with the lights off. I could not find any combination of fuses that would give me buzzer off with no lights and on with lights. So I followed the directions of the manufacturer and spliced the red lead directly into a lead going to the lights. I will tell you what I did for my early 1996, but this may not work for you: wiring schemes have a tendency to change a lot. Don't start powering up your airbag, because it can explode and kill you. And read the experiences of Frank Buttine below before doing anything.
Below the mentioned fuse box, there is a hole from which a bundle of wires goes down below the carpet and eventually toward the rear of the car. If you pull lightly on the wires (don't damage anything), you can work two connectors, white and blue, out of the hole. Near the middle of the white connector, there is a red wire with a black stripe which powers the rear side markers, license plate lights, rear lights, etcetera. By pushing a volt meter terminal into the connector at this wire, you should be able to confirm that this wire powers up when you turn on the lights. (Duck for exploding airbags.) Splice the red wire from the Lite-Minder into this red/black wire. My plastic splices did not provide a good connection, probably because the wire from the Lite-Minder is too thin. So I ended up stripping some plastic off both wires and twisted the wires together directly. I soldered this and wrapped it thoroughly in electric tape to avoid shorts and fires. Connect the other, white, wire from the Lite-Minder to the CIGAR fuse in the fuse block. For 1995 and up, use the provided pointed blades to make this hook up, for older cars use the square blades. Attach the Lite-Minder next to the fuse box using the tape provided.
Anyway, Frank reports that the unit will install between the TAIL (red) and METER (white) fuses in his 1995 car. So maybe my case is special. In any case, the remark by the manufacturer that only an instruments panel lamps fuse will do is clearly not always true. (Note that when Frank pulls the TAIL fuse, the instrument lights go; however, according to the manufacturer, you need a separate instrument panels lamps fuse.) I do not know why Frank's case is different from mine. I took my soldered joint apart and tested once more to make sure that really this does not work on my car. There may be a difference in wiring between 1995 and 1996: we do have our fuses in different locations. Or it may be my "Electronic Cop" security system which is installed between two (unrelated) fuses. I also have a Priority Start battery protector.
Interestingly, Frank reports that connecting the white wire to the CIGAR fuse as recommended by MMM does not work on his car either. So, make sure you thoroughly check out all fuses, using the method described by the manufacturer, before starting to splice anything. And please, let me know what you find so that I can add it to this page for others! Thanks!
"Andy" on rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata reports that the same fuses work on his 94. Pete Henry also seems to have used these on his 94. However, he reports that later years have experienced difficulties according to the miata.net archives.
Jim Dawson reports that you can find equivalent buzzers at Radio Shack. I found a 12 VDC buzzer, Cat 273-055A, at the first Radio Shack I looked, so this does seem to be easier to find. Also cheaper. The buzzer has stripped-wire ends, so you will have to make your own connections. You might of course be able to directly squeeze the stripped wire between the fuse and its connector, as a very dirty solution.
Jim connected his Radio Shack buzzer between the TAIL (red) and CIGAR (black) fuses. If I try to do the same with my car, I have the same difficulty as with the Lite-Minder; it buzzes whether the lights are on or off. I guess it may mean that Bozo is really a bozo. Like the Lite-Minder, the Radio Shack buzzer works on my car if the red lead is directly spliced into the tail lights wire and the black lead to the CIGAR fuse. Jim also notes however that his setup has twice "died" on him. He has it now attached with the black lead to the METER switch, hoping this will be more reliable.
Filipe Isidoro describes still another way to install the buzzer, as well as how to silence it unless the door is open. Use your back button to return.
If a Radio Shack buzzer is still too expensive, you can convert the seatbelt/key-in-ignition buzzer. Hank Barta tells how to convert it to a door-open/lights-on buzzer. Use your back button to return.
My lite minder is very quiet, but Pete Henry reports that his is extremely loud. By trying with a Radio Shack buzzer, I found that the sound level depends greatly on how the thing is lying on the table. So, of yours is too loud, wrap a piece of tape around it. This will also prevent the buzzer from causing whatever surface it is resting against to vibrate.
On the mailing archive, there should be a simple wiring change that turns the door-open buzzer in a door open and lights-on buzzer. See the archives at miata.net maybe early 1998. This info contributed by Raw Rats at America On-Line.
Please tell me your experiences so that I can add those too.